I blindly proceeded with the instructions, it went on very easily, considering… When I tensioned it back up everything stayed put. There is no way to get the belt on the tension side in the same place without moving something. If you did not do it this way, it will move eomething as you install the new belt. This allows you to slacken off the tensioner and have room on both sides to position the belt. When you rotate the engine clockwise to align the marks and go 1/4 turn past, then return to the marks as you turn counterclockwise, I believe the only thing you are doing is putting the slack on the normally tensioned side. Had some real fun doing my 02 S60 T5, it’s not too bad once you understand what they want. So far I’ve used the whiteout trick on a 960, 850 and the S40. The whole process took about 3 hours including removing engine mount and replaced the serpentine belt tensioner. When I have the new timing belt properly installed I used this procedure on the tensioner. With the white lines on both the belt and the pulleys it makes the whole process fool proof. Then replace the pulleys and tensioner and reinstall. Once removed, place the new and old belts on top of each other and transfer the markings onto the new belt, keeping the number of teeth between the markings the same. You can wiggle the T belt if you’re careful with the pulley in place. Do this on both the intake and exhaust cam and the crank pulled and also draw an arrow on the belt to mark the direction of rotation. Once you have the cams aligned with the markings on the cam cover, draw a line across the timing belt and across the cam gear. The easy way to replace the timing belt is to get some whiteout. Replaced all the pulleys except for the water pump. Just did the timing belt on a 2002 S40 in my garage yesterday afternoon without a cam alignment tools. They didn’t have individual sockets at Harbor Freight.Īnyway, this was a bugger, but well worth it! Hope this helps. The whole job was about $200 so I didn’t mind spending so many hours on it considering it probably saved me around $700-$800 versus having it done at the “stealer”.įYI, I picked up a 30mm socket at Northern Tool for $2.99 plus tax. I bought the parts at FCP (got the copper Bosch plugs (7955 I think) at AutoZone for $1.99 each). Next time I will definatley remove the plugs.Īlso, I did replace the Tbelt tensioner and idler pulley (didn’t mention it before). Kind of silly since I was planning the change the plugs anyway. I did not remove the plugs first, so rotating the crank was a chore, fighting against the compression. So I finally figured out that I needed things “misaligned” a little bit before adjusting the tensioner to compensate for that. The thing that makes is tough to line up the marks with the new Tbelt is that when you adjust the tensioner, it moves the exhaust pulley and the crank a little bit. Putting the Tbelt on would be immensely easier if you were to take off the crank pulley as instructed by VADIS, but I couldn’t figure out how to keep the crank from rotating while removing the pulley so my fear of messing something up led me to follow the instructions on Volvospeed (Bay 13) which provides instructions for doing it without pulley removal. The most time consuming things for me were 1) getting the new Tbelt over the crank pulley 2) readjusting the Tbelt and cam pulleys multiple times until the marks were all lined up and the tensioner properly adjusted 3) getting the Sbelt on.įor someone who claims to be OCD, I did manage to spread tools and parts all over the place so that I couldn’t find stuff when I needed them again – this made it take longer as well. I’d say about 14-15 hours total due to 1) I’m slow anyway, 2) I’m OCD so I have to check things umpteen times before going to the next step, 3) this was the first time for Tbelt, Sbelt, Plugs, and Fuel Filter. Need timing mark adjustment info for Volvo long? I didn’t time it exactly, but…… The V70 Timing Belt Change can be done without removing the crank pulley.
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